So I thought I had a mock up for the chemise (page 28 fig 7) I am trying to recreate. Looking at the top portion it looks to be a set of five panels that make up the main body of the chemise in the front. The confusing part, though, is if you look at the hem it looks to be three panels and not five. Now this could be a trick of folding, in which case it would have a pretty wide 'skirt' at the hem. From looking at pictures both artistic and photos of chemises I am leaning to the train of thought that the serious flare and generous circumference of hems is more to be found in petticoats and underskirts.
So the conundrum is....
Is this a three panel with a play on darts? OR Is this a five panel?
I might end up needing to revise things again later as I am making a bit of a leap in the assumption that in shaping and at least somewhat in cut the back is going to mirror the front in most ways. I might spend today seeing if I can mock up a three panel piece with dart like shaping in the upper part. As a reference my thoughts on shaping come from looking at corset covers like these. I think that the three panel idea would work by flipping the shaping from the 'middle' down to a 'middle' upward position.
Well here I sit with thread and string firmly attached to me via the wonders of static cling. Over the course of the day I have gone from a eureka moment where I thought I had figured out how to put together the chemise I wanted to getting a nearly working mock up of it done in scrap fabric. The fit is good, and worst case scenario I have a pattern from scratch for a new sun dress for myself.
Though I will admit that when the first threads of inspiration where latching onto my mind I did wonder if that was what it felt like to start (or finish, depending on how you look at it...) one's mind.
I am going to do some further research on seam treatment and if lucky maybe find a chemise that looks like what I am trying to pull off. Do note though that I am not holding my breath on the last part though.
In the mean time I did promise pictures of the corset fabric. ;)
First things first the lovely chocolate brown that will sadly be on the inside of the corset. (pardon the kitty toes in the picture, she had to check out what I was up to!) It looks more black in this picture since I need to work on my photography skills. With it is the lovely olive-y mint green fabric that will be the outer portion of the corset. The two paired outside of photos reminds me of a Andes mint.... Despite the fact that the green is a little darker then it would be for the candy. Still makes me hungry for the real thing though. I might go through quite a few come August when the how to for drafting a natural form era corset comes out for Foundations Revealed. I might have trouble waiting that long!
Here is a shot with the addition of the accent lace! If I get really adventurous I might just go so far as to make this corset reversible! Yes I like both the fabrics that much! they are so yummy! :D
And last but not least I will admit to a little short cut. I can *not* get lacing holes to line up straight to save my blinking life! I thought it a good investment to get the darn things pre set. If I can't line *that up* right then I'll be a lost cause. I do intend to set it so that the strip of eyelets actually sits in between layers of fabric. That way I can use a awl to open the fabric, where I will stitch them with a button whole stitch by hand. I think that will look nicer then the blaring contrast of the metal. You can just see the chocolate brown cotton ribbon (I've heard things go either way with the experiences from folks on ribbon vs shoelaces or other lacing.) it has a good gripping texture that I have had good experiences with in the past for lacing. I don't intend to truly 'cinch' myself in just a standard corset lace up. So this will work just fine. It is more of the delicious chocolate brown!